Exploring Japan Vol. 9 - Godzilla!!!!!

Those of you who know me or have read the blog for a while know I’m a monster fan at heart.  You’ve probably been asking yourself why it’s taking me so long to address Godzilla in all of these posts about visiting Japan.  Well the fact is, he’s more difficult to find than you’d think.  Sure, you’ll see him in the occasional gachapon machine and you can find toys in most decent toy stores, but there’s no Godzilla museum or even a decent exhibit in a Toho theater. Instead, you have to travel around and check out multiple sites that have a few things here and there.

First up, you can visit the Toho theater in Shibuya.  On the third floor, you’ll find the original Gojira statue that used to sit outside in a courtyard area.  As you can see, it’s kind of small given the subject matter, but it’s a cool statue nonetheless.

It was moved here after it was replaced by this statue in that same courtyard.  This version is the same one seen in the excellent Shin-Gojira that was a huge hit in Japan in 2016.  It’s bigger than the original but still, it’s not Godzilla-sized and it's just a statue in a courtyard.

What you really want to see is something big, crazy and loud, right?

There’s only one of those and it’s in Shinjuku.  That’s right, the same Shinjuku that I described last week as a little on the shady side.  The Hotel Gracery partnered with Toho in constructing a giant Gojira head and claws on its roof.  

Even from a distance, it looks like he’s about to come right over the building.  It’s located (conveniently) on Godzilla street.  

Take the elevator up to the lobby and you’ll be confronted with this awesome display featuring every single Toho Gojira movie poster in chronological order, from the original all the way through Shin-Gojira.  

Then, you can walk out onto the roof and see the big guy up close and personal.  

The base features famous scenes and an area where you can activate a low roar and sound effects.  The real treat is to be there when the giant head comes to life. Steam and lights begin pouring from its mouth and it lets out with a very loud roar!

Once you’ve finished looking around, if you still want a little more Gojira related fun, head to the hotel’s café and you can order a themed dessert.  I can’t vouch for them because we weren't hungry, but the main one is meant to resemble elevated train tracks and I’m sure playing with your food in this situation would not be frowned upon.

These are the major Gojira attractions in Tokyo proper, however there are others outside the area that we didn’t get to.  

For instance, there’s the giant slide at this playground called Kurihama Flower Park in Kanagawa.  

There’s also a giant footprint and plaque in Kanonzaki commemorating where the beast first made landfall in the original film.  

For years there was a slide and statue here also but it deteriorated and was torn down in the 1970’s. 

Finally, for those who are diehards who really want to spend a day getting closer to their favorite film, you can visit any number of major sites that were replicated in miniature and destroyed by the man in the rubber suit.  Here’s a quick list of some you can easily see by foot, train or river cruise.

Tokyo Tower – featured in multiple movies this was destroyed in many kaiju films from Gojira to Gamera.  At the time of Godzilla’s heydey it was one of the tallest structures in the city measuring 333 feet high.  It’s now been overshadowed by Toyko’s Sky Tree Tower which has been voted by Japanese fans as the structure they’d most like to see destroyed in the next film.

National Diet Building – This is the home of the Japanese parliament and accounts say that people cheered in 1954 when Gojira destroyed part of it.  This was because there was still a lot of resistance to the proposed Treaty of Mutual Cooperation between Japan and the U.S.  In 2003, the big guy came back to finish the job with help from Mechagodzilla in Godzilla: Tokyo S.O.S.

Ginza District – This is a very upscale area and in 1954 certain places within it were iconic.  That’s why Godzilla made it a point to smash the Matsuzakaya department store and the giant clock that tops Wako, another building that every Japanese native would recognize.  The Ginza district has been featured in many of the sequels as well.

Odaiba – This is an artificial island in Tokyo Bay that houses hotels, a mall (that felt a little too American to us), a giant ferris wheel and can now be accessed by monorail.  It was destroyed in Godzilla vs. Megaguirus (2000). Notice the ferris wheel on the far right in the picture above.

Kachidoki Bridge – This drawbridge was completely obliterated in the 1954 original film.  You can see it by taking a river cruise down from Asakusa to Hamarikyu Garden.  That same cruise will take you all the way to Odaiba if you want, but the Garden is a great place to wander and you shouldn’t miss it.

And that’s your Godzilla tour of Tokyo!  Next week, I’ll take you to a place even more horrible than anything ever imagined in any Godzilla film ever made:  Sanrio Puroland a.k.a. Hello Kitty Land.

Until then, if you want something almost as frightening to tide you over, check out my Amazon Author’s page.

See you next week!

Horror Histories Vol. 13 - The True Story Behind Ringu

One of my favorite things about being a horror fan is finding out about new subgenres I’d never heard of previously.  It’s not the same as hearing about an obscure film and seeking it out.  Finding a new subgenre is like being handed a chest full of gold.  Suddenly there a multiple films and an entire history to dig back through.

J-Horror (Japanese Horror) was one of those discoveries that sent me down a rabbit hole with seemingly no end.  There were so many good movies to dig through from old classics like Onibaba to the chaotic death match of Battle Royale to the twisted (pun purely intended) and gruesome Uzumaki.  Not to mention Juon: The Grudge, Pulse, Dark Water and a slew of others.  

The film that really brought J-Horror to most people’s attention was Ringu. It’s the story of a cursed videotape that brings death to whoever watches it.  The deadly ghost in the tape is named Sadako and as I mentioned in the blog about my visit to Aokigahara forest, she is modeled after the traditional descriptions of Japanese ghosts: long, scraggly black hair, a white burial robe and a thirst for vengeance.

What most people don’t realize is that the story behind Sadako’s tragic death and unresolved rage is actually real.  She is based on the true story of Chizuko Mifune.  

She lived over a hundred years ago and was rumored to have psychic powers.  Tokyo University’s own Tomokichi Fukurai heard the stories about her and decided it was worth investigating further.  After meeting her, he arranged to have a public demonstration so that everyone could see Chizuko’s powers for themselves.  Instead, people called her a fake. 

Whether she was a fake or really had a gift, no one knows for sure because before another test could be conducted, Chizuko took her own life.  This is almost the same back story given for Ringu’s vengeful spirit. 

As for the well that Sadako climbs out of, this is also based on a real haunted well.  In western Japan there is a famous castle called Himeji.  It happens to be the setting of one of the most famous ghost stories in all of Japan.  The story goes that a servant at the castle was approached by a samurai who tried to seduce her.  She refused him and in a fit of rage, the samurai killed her and threw her into the well.  Her ghost is said to haunt the well and the grounds around it to this day.

The picture above is of the well she threw herself into at Himeji Castle.  

   

If you haven’t seen Ringu, you really should.  It’s an extremely creepy movie that holds up very well, even though most people under 30 barely know what a “videotape” is.  

Also,if you’re looking for ghosts and ghostly happenings, check out my short story “A Debt to the Dead”.  You can find it on my Amazon Author’s page.

See you next week!

Exploring Japan Vol. 8 - Robot Show, Monster Cafe and Kaiju Sakaba!

So to wrap up this short series on cafes in Japan, I want to focus on what are hands down, three of the most outlandish in all of the ones we’ve tried.  The first is pretty famous.  It's been featured on Food Network and Travel Channel shows repeatedly.  Of course, I'm talking about the Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku.

Now, a quick word of warning.  The Robot Restaurant is located in a slightly seedier area of Tokyo.  Shinjuku has some seriously cool stuff to see if you're there with your family.  Aside from the Robot Restaurant, they also feature a gigantic Godzilla which I'll cover in another post.  However there are also a plethora of bars, host clubs, video stores and the occasional adult toy shop.  

If you've got issues with walking past any of that, put them aside because this place is absolutely worth it.  You'll present your ticket and be escorted up to a bar area where you can get your one free drink and purchase more if you're so inclined. 

There's a robot band playing which leaned toward jazzy versions of funk songs when we were there.  Soon you're led down into a room with bleacher style seats along two sides.  If you're eating here, you'll be served before the show, but the great thing about this place is you don't have to buy a meal.  Your ticket pays for your admission completely.  The show is long but there are breaks in between "acts" so you'll probably want another drink or two, plus they do have some killer popcorn.

What takes place over the next hour or so is supposed to tell a story, but we couldn't really follow it.  It didn't matter though.  Giant robots parade through the room, sometimes doing battle with each other, sometimes just leading or carrying parades of musicians.  Everything is lit in neon and the effect is sensory overload.  Once it's over, you're likely to ask yourself, "What did I just see?" and that's usually not a bad thing.

You do generally have to buy your tickets in advance for this, so if you're looking to go you may want to look them up online or get your hotel concierge to help you.

Let's say though that you want something similar but don't really like the idea of traveling to Shinjuku at night.  There's a pretty good alternative right in Harajuku.  The Kawaii Monster Cafe ("Cute Monster Cafe") celebrates weirdness on every level!

Yes, that's a giant rabbit drinking from an inverted milk bottle... you know, like they do in the wild.  Imagine a place so colorful and outlandish that it seems like it sprang from the imaginations of Sid and Marty Krofft  during their most surreal acid trip ever.  It makes the set of H.R. Puffinstuff look like  a police procedural  show.  

During your meal, you’ll get to see the hostesses perform on this rotating stage.  If you’re not careful, you may be called up to help them sing and dance. In between the shows, you're encouraged to get up and walk around to other areas.  Every inch of the place is strange.

However, I wouldn’t be writing about this place if it weren’t also for the lengths they go to in order to make their food just as colorful and outrageous. 

The plates above look like artists' palettes and what’s really cool is that each one of those “paint smudges” is actually a different sauce.  Color does not necessarily indicate what it is.  For instance, the blue is just butter.  Others may be ranch, mustard, etc.

If you’re there, splurge on a drink.  They are just as outlandish and if you have someone who has a sweet tooth, then get this beast!  Each color of icing is a different flavor!

The Kawaii Monster Café is very close to Takashita St. in Harajuku.   They suggest you make reservations but we just walked up around 2:30 on a Sunday and got right in for a late lunch.  Also, if you like what you see but think it’s a little too kid-like, then make it a point to reserve a spot in the evening.  The Kawaii Monster Café is adults only at night where they take the same theme and steer it toward a more mature direction.

So yeah, we all loved both of those places but there's only one that is my hands down favorite.  It's a very special bar/restaurant in Suzuki called Kaiju Sakaba.  Themed after the Ultraman TV show that’s been airing in Japan (in one incarnation or another) since the 1960’s, the premise is just awesome. 

Basically, every enemy that Ultraman has ever fought has finally gotten tired of losing.  Instead of world domination, they've gotten together to form an exclusive club where they only serve other evil doers. The result is one extremely fun place!  

Upon entering, each person has to stick their hand in the mouth of this wall decoration.  It then tells the server if you have any “hero DNA”.  If you do, then you can’t enter.  If you don’t, then you’re more than welcome! 

You’ll walk by a bunch of models and some memorabilia from the Ultraman shows, but once seated, the real fun begins.  In the main room, there is a wall to wall mural of Ultraman’s enemies in battle.  

The TV monitors show bits and pieces from different Ultraman episodes (but only the parts where the bad guys are winning).  There are also videos that show the villains starting the restaurant and what it looks like when they all begin to party there together. 

How’s the food?  I’m glad you asked.  This was the best food (in my opinion) of any of the cafes we visited. The portions are big and intended for you to order for the table and yes, the food is themed.  For instance, a sausage that we ordered was coiled on the plate like a snake with a plastic dragon head on one end and the tail on the other.  It also smoked when the cover was lifted.  A cheesy dip served in a bread bowl bore the logo in cheese on top.

Beer is served in Ultraman mugs (available for purchase also) and for each entrée you order, you get a special coaster featuring a different villain.  It’s the perfect place to go if you have a group of 4 -5 people and you want to party for a few hours. 

There are tons more themed places that we haven’t visited, including ones that recreate Edo era experiences, gothic churches,and of course the vampire and prison cafés.  We’ll probably hit one of those next time.

Still, I have to wonder why something as cool as these haven't sprung up in this country.  It seems like with the right theme, it'd be a slam dunk.

Next week, we'll look at how you can spend a day celebrating all things Godzilla.

See you then!

Horror Histories Vol. 12 - How Santa Inspired The Texas Chainsaw Massacre

The Texas Chainsaw Massacre (1974) is the very best movie about a Chainsaw Massacre that doesn’t actually show a chainsaw massacre.  That's true!  Not one chainsaw actually touches flesh in the entire runtime of the film.  For those who have never seen it, I know you don’t believe me.  You’re thinking that I’m fooling you into watching something that’s going to be super gory and gross.  I’m not though. 

Yes, a chainsaw does appear in the film, repeatedly and yes, the film is about a family of violent murderers.  No, it’s not something for everyone, but a common misconception that started in schoolyards nationwide back in the 1970’s is that The Texas Chainsaw Massacre is a supremely gory movie.  Instead, it gets its chills and scares from superbly measured camerawork and a phenomenal script that oozes dread.

Now, most people who love horror movies can point right away to the inspiration behind this one.  While we don’t see Leatherface and his family carving up human victims, we do see artifacts of their past deeds scattered around their house.  There are ornaments made of bones, furniture with bone decorations and that mask our villain wears definitely came from someone else’s face.  This all brings to mind a real life serial killer named Ed Gein who famously dug up graves and took trophies to make everything from furniture to clothing.  I won’t go into specifics but if you want to read something truly disturbing, check out his page on Wikipedia.

What many people don’t know is that Tobe Hooper was initially inspired by something even more horrifying than Ed Gein.

Christmas shopping.

Hooper gave an interview where he detailed what happened.  He was in the hardware department of a store and the Christmas shopping season was in full swing.  Hooper was not a fan of crowds so already, he was anxious to get out.  As his anxiety began to build, he found himself staring at a display of chainsaws.  His next thought was (and this is a direct quote), “Well, if I pick this damn thing up and start it, they’ll part like the Red Sea and I can get out of here.”

I know that's not Santa in the picture above, but it's as close as I could find.

Hooper had been looking for a horror story to film.  He was a big fan of George Romero’s Night of the Living Dead and wanted to make an independent feature to get his name out there.  With the realization that the chainsaw was potentially a violent and bloody weapon and not just a tool for lumberjacks, he soon started researching and writing.

See, the Holiday Season really does bring out the best in all of us, right?

If you want more horror that happens around the holidays, check out my book The Wash.  Seriously, holidays are involved.  Check it out!

See you next time!

Exploring Japan, Vol. 7 - Themed Cafes: Butlers, Maids, Trains and more!

So last week, we talked about animal cafes in Japan.  They’re pretty epic and if you’re an animal lover, chances are there is a café out there with some of your favorites just waiting for you to interact with them.  Like I said in that post, there is another kind of themed café in Japan that goes in a completely different direction than the animal cafes.   These are restaurants and bars that pick a theme and then go all out to give you an experience along with your food and drink.

Some of the more popular and famous include a prison-themed café where you dine in ‘cells’ and a vampire café where you’re served by the undead with the food and drinks themed appropriately.  There are tons more though and we’ve visited a few.  Here are some that may appeal to you if you're heading to Tokyo.

Maid Cafes – This is probably the most famous type of cafe.  I'd heard of maid cafes long before any of the others.  We felt that we had to go to one just for the experience, but honestly it wasn't our thing.  Basically, you get assigned a hostess who dresses in a stylized French maid outfit.  She then waits on you while making cutesy faces and singing songs (some of which you’re required to sing along with).  Japanese patrons will come, eat and talk/flirt with their maid although you should understand that there is nothing sexual about this.  That's a big difference in Western sensibilities and Japanese.  The maids will be glad to converse with you, but the discussion will be about where you're from, what you like to do, etc. It's entirely innocent.

Every food item is made to look “kawaii” (cute) but flavor isn’t necessarily a selling point.  Face it.  If you're eating a Japanese curry that's been colored pink, it's probably going to taste at least a little like food coloring.

It’s actually that way at most themed cafes.  You’re there for the experience, not necessarily because of their culinary delights.  There are two or three exceptions to this, one of which Karen and Lil both declared to be their favorite.

Butler Cafes – You may think that this is the male counterpart to a maid cafe but you'd be wrong.  The Swallowtail Butler Cafe in Ikebukuro is the ultimate high end tea house experience.  Karen and Lil went and while no pictures are allowed inside (Karen snapped the one below on the sly), they told me that it was better than any actual high tea service they've ever experienced. 

One thing that they had to get used to quickly is that you’re not allowed to do anything for yourself.  If you drop something, the butler appears and picks it up for you.  If you want more tea, the butler appears and pours it for you.

To top it off, the food here is magnificent.  Karen and Lil both said that the tea service of tiny sandwiches, etc. was better than they'd had at real tea houses here in the States.  They loved it so much they bought a photo of their butler!

Alice Cafes – These are Alice in Wonderland themed.  There are more than one but we visited Alice in Fantasy Book located in Shinjuku.  

This was an epic fun time.  You actually enter the lobby from an elevator and are escorted through an arch that is shaped like a large book.  You're also given rabbit ears or bows that you're required to wear.

Once inside, there are playing card and white rabbit themes everywhere.  The Mad Hatter’s tea party is in full effect.  The food here is actually very good and the deserts are even better. 

This was something we would definitely go back and do again.  Even the menu was epic with this killer pop-up page inside the cover.  

Now not every café is worth the effort.  For instance, the train café in Akihabara is well past its prime (if it ever had one).  The pictures we took of this place make it look way better than it actually is.  

While technically it’s a themed restaurant and yes, your food comes out in miniature trains, there are videos of trains playing as you eat and you can sit in train seats, sipping drinks named after different train lines, it’s kind of a craphole.  Plus, the theme is barely hanging on by a thread.  

The food is just so-so and if you go, you’re really only going because you love trains.  For us, it was a late night option for dinner that we happened to be right next to, so we took a chance on it.  We won’t go back.  It's overpriced, the food is just so-so and it was also pretty smokey.  Many restaurants and cafes no longer allow smoking inside but there are still some that do.  This is one of them.

Other cafes you may want to check out include the Gundam Café (giant robots) or some of the temporary cafes that pop up around the city.  These are generally sponsored by one of the chain manga stores and they last about two or three months.  They are usually themed around whatever the hottest animes are at the time.  We’ve never been to these to eat but we’ve looked in on an Attack on Titan one and it seemed pretty cool for what it was.  There will be posters and pictures on the walls and the food will be named for characters.

Now, next week I'll show you the two most over the top themed cafes in Tokyo as well as my favorite themed bar of all time.  It's dedicated to the Japanese superhero Ultraman and I'm being honest when I say that if I had the chance, I'd take the ten hour flight just to spend another few hours there with a bunch of like-minded friends.   

Until then, ponder why none of this stuff exists here in the States.

See you next week!