Exploring Japan Vol. 22 - Tokyo's Amazing Parks

Over the past 20 weeks, we've explored all kinds of fun stuff in Japan, but the truth is, that exploring Tokyo can sometimes feel a bit overwhelming.  Aside from the fact that you probably don't speak the language, it's a busy city.  There are trains, taxis, subways, people and all manner of lights and sounds around you.  Every now and then, you just feel like you need a break.

Well, you're not alone.  Most city-dwellers in Tokyo feel the same and thanks to a very strong cultural push to keep some reverence for nature, the city is filled with parks.  In the collective month of time that we've spent in Tokyo over the last two years, we've explored quite a few.  Some we just stumbled on.  Others, we sought out on recommendations.  In almost every case though, they do exactly what's intended.  They give you a chance to take a breath, relax and recharge.

When you should visit Tokyo's parks really depends on what you're looking for.  If you're just looking to relax or wander aimlessly, then go during the week (preferably mid-week).  Most people will be working and you'll have few visitors around you.  If you're looking to people watch, then go on a weekend.  You will find way more people doing strange things than you would ever dream.

At Yoyogi Park, right next to Meiji Shrine, you'll find a huge area with ponds, bike paths and large gatherings of clubs.  On the weekend, many people gather here and specific clubs dedicated to things like photography or juggling can be found hanging out and practicing together.  The picture below is actually the juggling club we stumbled on.

Yoyogi also gets its fair share of sunbathers around the main pond.  Karen and Lil were especially drawn to observing one guy in a thong.  I have a very candid picture of them staring that they had no idea I was taking.  It won't be posted here but trust me when I say it's the best photo I took on the entire trip.

At Yoyogi you can also rent bikes and there's even a small bike course for beginners and young children.  It's a great place to kill an hour or two between visiting the shrine and heading to Harajuku which is just a quick walk from the park entrance.

Let's say you're not up for a lot of people though.  Then head to Ueno Park.  It's actually the site of the oldest dedicated park in Tokyo.  

There are paths to walk, pedal boats to rent and the entrance to the Ueno Zoo butts up next to it.  On the weekend you will find food stalls here and we even found a couple while walking through on a weekday. 

The park is full of flowers and very close to an outdoor shopping mall that's pretty huge.  You can easily spend half a day in this area just wandering and sightseeing.  

However, if you want to go to our favorite park in all of Tokyo, you need to visit Shinjuku Gyoen.  This is actually a gigantic botanical garden.  You'll have to pay an admission to get in but it's generally around $2.00 pending the exchange rate.  It's totally worth it.  

Inside, you'll find gigantic old growth trees. There are large ponds and flower gardens throughout. Sections of the park are set up in traditional Japanese, English and French garden settings. 

Paved paths will take you around the majority of it, but there are also offshoot paths that will take you through more heavily wooded areas.  It's easy to forget that you're in a city while you're here, but every now and then you'll catch a glimpse of the skyline.

On one end of the park there is also a greenhouse open to the public.  Inside, you'll find plants from around the world along an easy to walk path that takes you along two levels of greenery.  

I swear that picture above looks like a Pokemon character.  

Anyway, you won't find any clubs or craziness in this park.  It's truly just for people who appreciate nature and want to enjoy the peacefulness of it.  There's even a tea house on site if you're looking for something else to do.

There are plenty of other parks I could mention.  For instance, the large one outside the imperial palace has life-sized Bonzai trees, cut into fantastical shapes.  Below you can see a man working on one.

Our favorites though tend to be those top three, with one exception from me.

One day, Lil and Karen had a reservation at a butler cafe near the Sunshine City Mall.  I decided to wait for them in a small park nearby.  I went to a Lawson's store and picked up a sandwich, some chips and a beer.  Then I headed over and found a bench in the far corner of the park.  From where I sat, I could see other people coming out to eat their lunches here.  It was cool just being one of the locals.  Then I started noticing the cats.  They were everywhere.  They were obviously part of the allure of the park because many people were feeding them or just petting them. 

This fascinated me, partially because I'm highly allergic to cats yet love them.  If I even pet one, my hand itches almost instantly, yet often I'll do it anyway and then run to a sink to wash up.  It also grabbed me though because it was so obvious that they were just part of the scenery.  I have no idea the name of the park, but we just call it the Cat Park.  When Lil and Karen met me after their lunch, I insisted they come look.  Lil walked up to this cat lounging on the ground and said hello.  He didn't mind a bit.

So if you're headed back there for a vacation, keep the parks in mind when you start to feel sick of being in a big city.  Just a 30 minute stop in the middle of a bunch of trees and flowers can be enough to reset your sense of adventure.

Exploring Japan Vol. 18 - Return to Iwakuni

For those of you reading this who are a little older, I have a question. Was there ever a place you lived that you feel helped form the person you became?  If so, was it someplace far from home and family?

If you said yes to both of those questions, then you’ll probably appreciate this post.  There is nowhere I’ve lived that changed me more as a human being than my three years spent in Iwakuni, Japan.  I made friends there I still keep in touch with to this day. I also learned a lot of valuable lessons and made a lot of mistakes.  It was a time that I will never forget but which the years have blurred to the point of romanticizing things a bit.

I’d always told my wife that if given the chance, I’d love to take her to Iwakuni just so she could see where I lived and what life is like there. That said, I never truly thought I’d ever get that chance, so imagine my surprise when we realized that we could make it happen. On our first trip to Japan as a family, we carved out five days for a jaunt via Shinkansen to the Hiroshima area.  

Iwakuni sits about 45 minutes away right up against the inland sea and while we were only in Iwakuni itself for a single day, it was enough. As a family, when we think back on that first trip, every single one of us ranks that day as one of the best we had.

In an earlier post, I mentioned visiting the tea region of Japan.  The day after that trip, we boarded the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. If you’ve never ridden on a bullet train, the best I can describe it is to say it’s like the world’s smoothest flight.  

First, they are ALWAYS on time. In fact, it’s to the minute most days, so don’t dare be late or you will be left. The seats are comfortable and roomy. There is a service that comes through offering beverages and meals.  You can get up and walk around whenever you feel like it and if you have Snapchat, you can take cool photos that use your location tracking on your phone to figure out how fast you’re going.

Yeah, that’s really freakin’ fast.  

The only bad thing is that the further south you go, the more tunnels there are on this route so instead of seeing more of the countryside, many times you only see cement walls or just blackness.  Still, it’s a pleasant ride overall and it’s easy to find yourself lulled to sleep.

Once in Hiroshima, we checked into our hotel and explored a bit.  I’ll go into that and our day trip to Miyajima in a separate post.  The third day there, we took the train down to Iwakuni. Now, when I lived there, it was courtesy of the U.S. Navy.  I was allowed to live off base with my friend Dave Adsit (a Marine) and we got a taste of what life was really like living in Japan.  I would have loved to have visited the base and then wandered outside the gates to find where I’d used to live, however we only had one day.  With time being such a factor, I wanted the girls to see my favorite place to visit in Iwakuni: Kintai Bridge and Iwakuni Castle.

Kintai bridge is a footbridge that crosses the Nishiki River.  It was originally built in 1673 and while parts of it have been washed away from time to time (the last one being 1950), it’s been rebuilt in its original fashion and is a true sight to behold.  

Five arches rise and fall across a line of stone bases. They lead you from a city street into a beautiful park (Kikkou Park) where you can spend an entire day exploring.

We crossed over and wandered through the area where the diving birds are kept.  These birds are used to catch fish and this area was known for this activity back in the days when the bridge was built.  

From there, we took the cable car up to Iwakuni Castle. What sits atop the mountain now is a recreation. The original castle fell centuries ago by an official order in 1615.  

The bridge used to lead to the main gate. The castle recreation houses a museum that shows off artifacts that have been uncovered in the area. You’ll find samurai swords, armor and even bits of the roof from the original castle.  If you go up to the top level, you’ll find telescopes and it was through one of these I was able to see the barracks I used to live in when I first moved to Iwakuni.

I was also able to see the television/radio station I used to work at while I lived there.

I need to give a special shout out to my wife for helping me manipulate the smartphone camera in the telescope lens in order to capture those pictures.

However, the real fun is in wandering the paths around the castle.  On the day we were there, it was windy and you could hear music in the thousands of leaves rustling around you.  

I took the girls to see the old well (which was one of my favorite places to see) and we wandered a little way down the paved mountain path.  It was here that I saw something I didn’t expect to find.

Years ago, I used to ride my bike to Kintai Bridge and then hike a steep path through the woods all the way up the mountain to the castle.  Every map I’d seen recently only showed a wide paved path that one could walk(or drive) up, but there was no sign of the trail I used to take.  

Yet here, right off that paved path, was an obvious trail. There was no sign marking it as the one down to the bottom, but I knew it was the same one.

I bid the girls goodbye and told them I’d meet them at the bottom.  They headed back to the cable car and I started down one of the steepest paths I’ve climbed in years.  However, I was completely alone. There wasn’t any sound around me but the wind in the trees and my own footsteps.  

Only once did I see any wildlife as a snake crossed the path in front of me. I was happy for that rather than catching one hanging from a branch like in this helpful sign tacked to a tree halfway down.

By the time I got to the bottom, I felt more peaceful than I’ve felt in ages.  

The last part of the path leveled out and led through this beautiful tunnel of green before opening up at the entrance to a Shinto Temple.  

I quickly paid my respects and then met the girls in the park. They’d discovered the wading pool and we all sat with our feet in the water and watched the local kids play around us.  

It was a magical day and one I’d love to repeat at some point.  For now, I’ll just feel lucky that I got the chance to do it again this time.

If you find yourself in the Hiroshima area, take a day to visit Iwakuni. Kikkou Park is a treasure and especially so during cherry blossom season.

Next week, we’ll talk a bit more about Hiroshima and how sometimes, my fifty-year-old memory is still sharp as a tack.

See you then!

Exploring Japan, Vol. 2 - Daisho-in and the Eternal Fire

So last week I showed you my visit to the Kappa-dera Temple in Kappabashi.  It’s definitely a unique place, but this next one is also pretty great and it’s in a location that’s one of the most beautiful in Japan.  I’m talking about Daisho-in, a temple on the island of Itsukushima.  The island sits about 30 minutes outside of Hiroshima. 

Most people come to the island to visit the city of Miyajima and the famous floating torii that sits in its bay.  I’m going to cover Miyajima on its own in another post later on, so for now, let’s focus on Daisho-in.   

Before I go further though I need to take a moment to discuss the unique combination of religions that most Japanese people practice in everyday life.  The religion indigenous to Japan is Shinto, which at its core is focused on nature, balance and the idea that the spirit of everything is interconnected.  Buddhism came to Japan and once it got popular, there were efforts by the Japanese government to drive it out or at least repress it.  The result ended up being a blending of the two religions.  Right next to almost any Buddhist temple you visit in Japan, you'll find a Shinto shrine.  Many people will worship at both at different times.  

Shinto's afterlife is basically similar to Hades from Greek mythology.  A tour guide once told me that the best way to explain why the Japanese tend to blend the two is to say that Buddhism offered "heaven" but didn't necessarily disregard all of the other Shinto beliefs, so people took what they wanted from both.

Heading up to the peak of Mt. Misen, you'll see a number of temples and shrines from both religions.  They tend to dot different places along the path.  

The first real step up to Daisho-in is easy if you don't mind heights.  You can take a sky ride up to the first peak on the island which cuts a very large swath of literal mountain climbing out of the hike.  From that point, there is no other way forward but to walk.  It's a long trek downhill and then back uphill again to an adjoining peak.  My wife and daughter bowed out along the way and told me they’d meet me back by the sky ride.  I’m going to try not to over or understate the climb.  It’s doable for anyone who's able-bodied.  I had the wrong shoes and shirt on and was at least fifty pounds overweight at the time, but I made it.  Take your time and you’ll be fine.

Along the way, you’ll be treated to some spectacular views of the inland sea area of Japan.  Other than the paved path, everything around you is natural; no cars, no trains, no hustle and bustle of life at all.  Aside from other hikers, it’s a pretty peaceful place.  

When you get close, you’ll be able to see the edge of the temple above you.   It gave me a second wind at that point and I was up in no time.

When you finally do reach the temple, don’t be surprised to find guys like this sitting around.  It’s become a tradition for some travelers to leave sunglasses, hats, etc. on the statues here.  The temple was founded on Mt. Misen in the year 806 A.D.  The founder, a Buddhist monk named Kukai (or Kobo Daishi as he is now referred to after death).  Kukai ventured to the island and after visiting the mountain decided to establish the temple and perform 100 days of “Kokuzou-Gumonji”.  That is a secret doctrine in Japanese Buddhism and once he was finished, he began what would become a school of Buddhism that survives in  Japan to this day.  It’s called Shingon Buddhism and it translates into “True Words”. 

During the time that Kukai was performing his 100 day ritual, he lit a fire.  That same fire has been kept burning ever since.  If you’re counting, that’s over 1,200 years.  You can walk right up to it and see it for yourself.   It’s housed in a building that’s called Reikado Hall (Eternal Fire Hall) and you can walk completely around it.  

The smoke is fragrant and not for anyone even remotely asthmatic, however the pot above it contains water that is said to have many healing properties.  I didn’t try it out myself so I can't vouch for it, but seeing this place in person was pretty fantastic.  An interesting side note, the eternal flame at the Hiroshima Atomic Bomb Memorial was lit from a torch ignited in this fire.

Nearby is Misen Hondo Hall (Main Hall).  This is the actual place where Kukai performed his 100 days of training all those years ago.  Again, you can walk right up and into the structure.  It houses some beautiful Buddhist statues and a small temple where you can pay your respects if you are so inclined.

If you want to visit another shrine, this one dedicated to the gods who protect the mountain, you can visit Sankido Hall.  The main god is named Tsuichokijin and he is served by tengus which are long-nosed goblins from Japanese folklore.  Tengus are some of my favorite creatures in Japanese mythology so this was a must see also, although I don't have any good pictures from it.  

In fact, from that point I turned around and headed back to my family, however you can go even further if you wish.  There are even more shrines along the way to the peak on the island.  Had I been on my own, I’d have spent the entire day visiting them.  

This is honestly one of the most beautiful settings I’ve ever been in, so don't miss the opportunity if you get to visit the area.

Next week, we'll wrap up the look at shrines, but this one is less about the shrine and more about the GIGANTIC party thrown there once a year.  Swing by next week to see what I'm talking about.

Until then, visit my Amazon Author's page and I'll catch up with you next time!

Southern California Vol. 15: The Wild Buffalo of Catalina Island

I’ve written about Catalina Island a few times on this blog.  Mostly I’ve mentioned it when talking about diving as it’s the home of some of the most beautiful diving spots around.  However, it’s also home to something kind of weird.

A herd of buffalo.

That’s right, there’s a herd of wild buffalo on a small island out in the Pacific Ocean. 

 

Now I know what you’re asking yourself.  How did they get there?  Were they grazing when a massive earthquake separated the island from the mainland and they’ve just existed all these years?  Perhaps they were picked up by aliens and deposited in the wrong place!

No, there’s a much simpler and obvious reason they’re on the island. 

Hollywood.

In 1924, a Hollywood production company sent a film crew to Catalina Island to film a silent version of Zane Grey’s western The Vanishing American.  It was to be directed by George B. Seitz whose other film credits include The Black Secret and The Iron Claw.  It was to star Richard Dix who later would be nominated for an Academy Award for his performance in Cimarron.  The costar was Lois Wilson who lived to age 93 and appeared in over 150 films.

Apparently no expense was to be spared because the budget allowed for the transport of a small herd of bison to the island for use in filming.  Once production wrapped though, the crew found it impossible to round up the herd to get them back to the mainland.  After some frustration, the decision was made to just leave them to fend for themselves.  Over the years they thrived.  At one point the herd was 600 strong but now it’s maintained at about 150 individuals.  They are periodically moved to the mainland and in some cases even transported to the Great Plains where their ancestors originated.

Here’s the kicker to this story.  If you watch The Vanishing American, can you guess what you don’t see?

Buffalo.

Every scene that featured the buffalo was eventually cut from the final version of the film.  According to Jim Watson, a columnist for the Catalina Islander Newspaper, there’s not even any footage from the Catalina portion of the shoot in the final film at all.

The good news in all this is that the bison are actually good for the island instead of being a detriment like most invasive species.

There are tours that will take you to the islands’ interior and allow you to get a look at the bison for yourself.  I highly recommend you get out to Catalina at some point and spend the money to take a tour. It’s a fantastic place to visit whether you’re under water or above it.